Setting canAllTypefacesBeUsedInLayout (…) to return false fixes my issue, but I can’t do that without patching JUCE.
My font does work correctly on OSX outside Juce and the same code/font does work on windows.
My conclusion is that at least with my configuration the old workaround is still needed even on pure 10.11 and I would very much like to have a way to override the new behaviour with the old one as I have no issues with speed.
Update: I tried running the same thing on 10.13 and there it is displaying correctly. I have no access to 10.12. Anything below 10.11 will use the old workaround and probably work in my case.